The New and Improved Islander (A 7 Watt FM Transmitter)

Together with a half-wave dipole positioned in a vertical stance, the signal leaving the antenna will then radiate evenly in an omni-directional fashion. With the antenna just at 15 feet above ground level, a signal distance of 3 miles can be achieved. At an elevation of 50 feet above ground, a signal distance of 10 miles can be achieved.

So my friend, if you fancy this project, let us embark on the fun, yet challenging journey of...

This project is actually a 5 in 1 project. Besides building the Islander, 4 more projects will be needed for the successful operation of the transmitter...and they are:

1) If you intend to use the Islander for long periods of time, a power supply will be needed. The instructions for making an 'Adjustable Power Supply' is on my homepage...under 'Patrick's Projects'. You can also use an automobile 12 volt battery...although if a battery is used, at a certain period of time when transmitting, you may experience a 'frequency shift' coming from continual current drain of the battery. Not so with the power supply.

2) You will also need to make my half wave dipole antenna. The complete instructions on how to make this antenna is on my homepage...under 'Patrick's Projects'. The impedance of a half wave dipole antenna is around 74 ohms. The output impedance of the Islander is around 66 ohms. This will give a very close match between the two systems.

3) My RF Probe/Watt Meter will also be needed to find out if the Islander, is in fact, working or not. That is, you will find out the transmitter's output 'unloaded' and 'loaded' voltages; thereby figuring out the transmitters' output impedance/output wattage.

4) Finally, a Field Strength Meter also needs to be made. This is also at my homepage, under 'Patrick's Project's. It will let you fine tune your 3rd stage coils, by getting the strongest signal possible with the Field Strength Meter. That way, you will be sure that the Islander is giving out the strongest output wattage available. You can also use it by finding out which direction the signal is radiating the strongest from the antenna.

Using two variable tuning capacitors (in the photo above) salvaged from AM/FM tunable radios, the ease of locating the correct frequency is at your fingertips. Literally, your hands can tune in your transmitting frequency, without the need of small trimmer capacitors using special non-metallic alignment tools; formally introduced with the older version of The Islander. This method eliminates the need for special testing equipment to catch the resonating frequency. Just your AM/FM radio in your car will be needed, to find your transmitting signal.

Also to mention...the former Islander Project used the NTE342 transistor. This NTE transistor has now been dis-continued from the company. I called up many distributors who had handled this transistor, only to say that they will be getting no more from NTE. So what they have in stock, is all they have left. I then decided to experiment with the Islander using a new transistor. This transistor is an NTE474. I finally got the Islander to work just as well with this transistor as it had with the NTE342. I will keep the LINK to the original Islander on the homepage, solely on the purpose of a good reference in making the new Islander. Sir Harold's journey of the original Islander will indeed also come in handy for good reference, when one decides to make the new Islander. He gives his trials and tribulations on how demanding, yet still fun, the Islander can be! Look for his LINK directly below the 'Original Islander' on the homepage.

Both projects are basically the same; only a few alterations have been made, making the new Islander a lot easier to lock on to your transmitting frequency...using AM/FM tuning capacitors instead of the small-type trimmer capacitors... and a metallic divider that goes in between the oscillating coil and the amplifier coil for more signal stability. The schematic drawing below is basically the same as the original...

Islander, with only a few minor changes...replacing the two trimmer capacitors with those two variable tuning capacitors. Also, some ceramic capacitors were changed in values. The PCB layout has changed. Further down in the webpage will show the current PCB Template layout.

If you would like to make an FM transmitter, but have never made one before, I strongly suggest you make my 10mW FM Transmitter. This way, you will get your feet wet. When the 10mW unit has been completed and functioning well, you may turn your thoughts on making the 200mW FM Transmitter. Once this is achieved and you are happy with the results...the Islander will be waiting!

1 - NTE474 NPN Transistor (Case Style TO-220)	2 - 4.7K Carbon Type Resistor (1/4 Watt Rating)
1 - 2N2222A NPN Transistor (Case Style TO-92)	4 - .001uF Ceramic Type Capacitor
1 - 2N2907 PNP Transistor (Case Style TO-92)	3 - 1uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor (25v or higher rating)
1 - 2N3904 NPN Transistor (Case Style TO-92)	1 - 27K Carbon Type Resistor (1/4 Watt Rating)
30 Gauge Wire (sometimes called magnet wire)	1 - 47K Carbon Type Resistor (1/4 Watt Rating)
26 Gauge Wire (sometimes called magnet wire)	1 - 6.8K Carbon Type Resistor (1/4 Watt Rating)
1 - 3/8" Standard Threaded Bolt ( approx. 1-1/2" long)	1 - 100 Ohm Carbon Type Resistor (1/2 Watt Rating)
1 - 1/4" Standard Threaded Bolt (approx. 1-1/2" long)	1 - 5 Ohm Carbon Type Resistor (1/2 Watt Rating)
2 - Variable Tuning Capacitors (These are typical 6-lead capacitors found in AM/FM tunable radios.	1 - 1N914 Diode
1 - Double Sided PCB. The exact measurements are found later on in this webpage under the construction of the PCB.	1 - Either a 1N001 or 1N002 or 1N003 or 1N004 or 1N005 Diode
A power supply is needed for this project. My adjustable power supply found on the homepage (under Patrick's Projects) should be built. This power supply is capable of handling the amperage needed for the Islander to work.	1 - 470uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor (25v or higher rating)
A fan is also needed to keep the NTE474 from over-heating. Any medium-size computer fan (3" X 3" or larger) will adequately do the job.	1 - 0.1uF Ceramic Type Capacitor
RG-59 coax cable is needed for the antenna system. Try and not use over 100 feet, since the loss in RF energy covering this distance will be minimum.	5 - Homemade Air Core Coils (See instructions on how to make them further down on this webpage)
1 - Two terminal electet microphone.	1 - 2200uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor (25v or higher rating; this capacitor will help reduce the humming sound coming from the power supply). The position of this capacitor will be talked about later on in this webpage.
1 - VK200 Choke (This choke may be purchased at Mouser Electronics, USA. Part number is 623-2943666671)	1 - 5600uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor (25v or higher rating; this capacitor will help reduce the humming sound coming from the power supply). The position of this capacitor will be talked about later on in this webpage.
1 - Female RG-59 connector (This is the for the antenna output on the Islander; this can be salvaged from a discarded TV set)	Either a 12v battery or a 12 volt power supply is needed for the Islander. If you would like to make my 'Adjustable Power Supply' and not use a battery, just go back to the homepage and under 'Patrick's Projects'...you will find the instructions on how to make the 'Adjustable Power Supply.
A half wave dipole antenna is needed for the Islander. This antenna has an impedance of 75 ohms...which closely matches the output impedance of the Islander, which is 50 ohms. Go back to the homepage, and under 'Patrick's Projects'...you will find instructions on how to make this antenna.	Approximately 10 to 15 round ferrite cores; with holes in the middle of them. The holes should be large enough to pass the RG-59 cable through. These ferrite cores will tremendously aid in the reduction of a 'humming' sound coming from the power supply. These cores can be found in a lot of electronic devices; such as TVs, radios, microwave ovens, copiers, computers, fax machines, printers, monitors, etc. The size of these cores does not have to be all the same. I have used many different sizes. So whatever size it is, must make sure you can slip the RG-59 cable through it.
1 - 82pf Ceramic Type Capacitor	1 - 47pF Ceramic Type Capacitor
1 - 150pF Ceramic Type Capacitor	A tube of heatsink compound for the NTE474 transistor.
1 - 270 Ohm Carbon Type Resistor (1/2 Watt Rating)	Nothing in this space

Mouser Electronics, here in the USA, carries the NTE474 Transistor and also the VK-200 choke. If you live outside the United States, then e-mail them and ask them if they deliver to your part of the world.

To the right is a finished PCB for the Islander. Notice that I have laid down quite a bit of solder over all of the 'islands'. Each island is then 'raised up' a little. Once this is done, take a toothbrush a some WD-40, and scrub the board...to get off all of the leftover residue. This will give you a 'clean' looking board. Then wash the PCB in warm soapy water...and then dry. Do this before the soldering of components.

Also, a PCB partition is needed to separate the 1st stage coil from the 2nd stage coil. This will aid in keeping each coils' electro-magnetic field from affecting one another...hence keeping stability to your oscillating frequency. Go ahead and cut a piece of PCB and solder it in between the two variable tuning capacitors. A space is provided on the PCB for you to do that. The divider will come close to the 2nd tuning capacitor...but it will not touch it. Cut small sections out of the bottom of the divider PCB, so that it will only be solder to the ground area on the PCB. Do not let the divider touch any islands. A small section will also need to be cut out for the tapped leg of the first coil. The width of the divider should be even with the edges of your Islander's PCB. The height of the PCB divider should be 1 -1/2 inches. You may use a single or double-sided PCB for the divider.

Below is the PCB template that needs to be printed out on your printer. Once printed, you will then see the size that the PCB needs to be. The overall size of the PCB is in BLACK. Whatever way you make your PCB's, try and keep the same measurments as shown in your printed-out copy of the PCB template. Where ever you see WHITE in the print-out; that is where there is NO copper. Where you see BLACK in the print-out; that is where there IS copper. Notice that all the BLACK islands (hence the name 'The Islander') are hot areas. The remaining large single BLACK area is ground; which passes all around the 'hot islands'. There are 16 'islands'. The two large WHITE areas are where your 2 variable tuning capacitors will go. If you use the 'toner transfer' or 'photo transfer' methods...be sure to reverse your printout (horizontally) before applying it to your PCB.

The drawing below shows how the NTE474 is to be positioned on the bottomside of the PCB. You do not have to trim any of the legs of the transistor. Go ahead and drill your two holes for the BASE and COLLECTOR, and then drill a hole for the TAB of the transistor. This TAB is also connected to the EMITTER. The EMITTER leg goes to ground. So your bottom and topside of the PCB will act as a heatsink. But you will NEED at least a 5" X 5" fan. My fan, as you can see in the last picture on this webpage, comes from a large power supply. The fan runs on 120AC. That NTE474, powered with 12v of DC, will get very hot...if no fan is used. Eventually, within minutes, it will overheat. So my friend, always have the fan ON, when the Islander is ON.

The drawing shown below identifies where each component will go on the PCB. Take your time & always use this drawing to make sure you are soldering all the components in their respective places on the PCB. The chart below gives the numbering of each component in relation to the drawing. Solder all the components into place, EXCEPT the 2 variable tuning capacitors. These two capacitors will be discussed, after you have soldered the rest of the components to the PCB. Another chart below the first chart, will emphasize special treatment to certain components; before they are soldered to the PCB. Take notice of that.

#1 - Two-terminal electret microphone. Make sure your positive terminal is soldered to the island where the positive side of the 1uF electrolytic capacitor is soldered to. The negative terminal of the mic will go to ground.	#2 - 1uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor	#3 - 4.7K Carbon Type Resistor
#4 - 47K Carbon Type Resistor	#5 - 27K Carbon Type Resistor	#6 - .001uF Ceramic Type Capacitor
#7 - 2N3904 NPN Transistor	#8 - 1uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor	#9 - 4.7K Carbon Type Resistor
#10 - .001uF Ceramic Type Capacitor	#11 - Variable Tuning Capacitor (Oscillator)	#12 - 6.8K Carbon Type Resistor
#13 - 2N2907 PNP Transistor	#14 - 100 Ohm Carbon Type Resistor	#15 - 2pF Ceramic Type Capacitor
#16 - Homemade Coil (See further down on this webpage for construction of all coils)	#17 - 1uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor	#18 - 1N914 Diode
#19 - 2N2222A Transistor	#20 - .001uF Ceramic Type Capacitor	#21 - 5 Ohm Carbon Type Resistor
#22 - 120pF Ceramic Type Capacitor	#23 - 82pF Ceramic Type Capacitor	#24 - Homemade Coil (See further down on this webpage for construction of all coils)
#25 - Homemade Coil (See further down on this webpage for construction of all coils)	#26 - Variable Tuning Capacitor (Amplifier)	#27 - VK-200 choke
#28 - 150pF Ceramic Type Capacitor	# 29 - Homemade Coil (See further down on this webpage for construction of all coils)	#30 - 270 Ohm Carbon Type Resistor
#31 - Homemade Coil (See further down on this webpage for construction of all coils)	#32 - 1N001 or 1N002 or 1N003 or 1N004 or 1N005 diode.	#33 - 0.1uF Ceramic Type Capacitor
#34 - 470uF Electrolytic Type Capacitor	#35 - 47pF Ceramic Type Capacitor	#36 - .001uF Ceramic Type Capacitor
#37 - Female RG-59 connector	nothing in this space	nothing in this space

Go ahead and begin your soldering of the components to the PCB. As your soldering begins, take special notice to 'extra advice' given to certain components...before they are soldered to the PCB. Below are the accounts of these certain components.

#3 - Make sure the positive lead of this capacitor goes to the island to which the positive side of the electret mic is also soldered to. The negative lead will go to the island where the base of the 2N3904 is also soldered to.	#29 - This is a 1/4" coil. Make this coil with your 1/4" standard threaded bolt. Make 9 turns, with no tap. Slowly unscrew the coil from the bolt, when it is made. Do not squeeze or stretch the the turns of the coil. Then solder one leg to the island to where the collector of the NTE474 is also solderd to. The remaining leg will be soldered to the island to where the positive side of the 470uF electrolytic capacitor is also soldered to.
#8 - Make sure the positive lead of this capacitor goes to the island to which the emitter of the 2N3904 is also soldered to. The negative lead will go to ground.	#32 - This diode MUST be soldered correctly. If you are unsure about the polarity of diodes, send me an e-mail and I will assist in that. If the diode is soldered incorrectly, the NTE474 could very well quickly overhea! The negative (cathode) side of this diode will be soldered to the island where the positive side of the 470uF electrolytic capacitor is also soldered to. The positive (anode) side of the diode will be soldered to ground.
#14, #21 - All resistors will be 1/4 watt...except for #14 and #21. These two resistors be will 1/2 watt.	#34 - This 470uF electrolytic capacitor will have it's positive lead soldered to the island where the negative side of the diode is also soldered to. The negative lead of this capacitor will be soldered to ground.
#16, #25 - The first coil, which is #16, is the oscillating coil. The other coil, #25, is an amplifying coil. Both coils are made exactly the same. I will explain how to make one of them. Take your 5/16" standard threaded bolt and make a 3 turn coil with a one turn tap. The 'one turn' side of the coil will go to the island where the 1N914 diode is also soldered to. The 'two turn' side of the coil will go to where the collector of the 2N2907 is also soldered to. The tapped leg will go to the island where the base of the 2N2222A is also soldered to. Refer to my homepage, under 'Patrick's Projects'...to find out how to make Air Core Coils. A fully explanation will be there, on how to make your tapped air-core coils. Once you have made your coils, slowly unscrew it from the bolt. Do not stretch the coil in any way. Solder into place.	#36, #37 - Keep the lead, coming from the .001uF ceramic capacitor, as short as possible, going to the input of the female RG-59 connector. A lead length of of 1/4" or shorter is needed. NEVER turn your Islander on, without first having your antenna system connected to it. Otherwise, the NTE474 will overheat.
#17 - Make sure the positive lead of this capacitor goes to the island to which the positive side of the diode is also soldered to. The negative lead will go to ground.	#27 - This is your 'store-bought' choke. This choke is reversible, just like typical ceramic capacitors. Solder one leg of the choke to the island to where the base of the NTE474 is also soldered to. The remaining leg will be soldered to ground.
#11, #26 - These two variable tuning capacitors are typically found in AM/FM 'hand tunable' radios. They are of a 6 lead type. A full explanation on which two leads are used is explained in the section 'Tuning in the Islander'.	#24, #31 - These two are also made exactly the same, but using your 1/4" standard threaded bolt. They are both a three turn coil, without a tap. One leg of Coil #24 will go to the island where the 82pF ceramic capacitor is also soldered to. The other leg will go to the island where the base leg of the NTE474 is also soldered to. Coil #31 will have one of it's leg soldered to the island where the collector leg of the NTE474 is also soldered to. The other leg will be soldered to the island where the .001uF ceramic capacitor is also soldered to. Once you have made your coils and are unscrewing them from the 1/4" standard threaded bolt, slowly unscrew it from the bolt. Do not stretch the coil in any way. Then solder into place.

Let's find out a little bit about the 2 tuning capacitors. These capacitors come in two different heights: 1) One is 1/2" tall. 2) Another kind if 11/16" tall. They both have 6 leads and both look simular and perform the same. It doesn't matter which one you acquire. These tuning capacitors are found in 'hand tunable' AM/FM radios. These small radios can be purchased at your local Wal-Mart stores. Then just salvage the tuning capacitors from the radios...not to mention other parts that you may salvage and keep for future projects!

There are six leads coming from these variable tuning capacitors. If you have a capacitance meter, it would be easy to find the correct 2 leads that one needs to solder to the PCB. Let's first assume you have a capacitance meter. With the capacitance meter and the drawing to the right, check to see the minimum and maximum values of leads #1 and #2. Write that done on a piece of paper. Then with leads #6 and #5, again check to see the minimum and maximum values of these two leads. Write that done also on a piece of paper.

One set of leads will give you a small range of values. The other set of leads will give you a much larger range of values. You will need to use the set of leads that give you the broadest range of capacitance values. Usually, the small set of values will be around 10pF through 40pF. And usually the larger set of values will give you a capacitance range of around 10pF through 90pF...or even way over 100pF. Always use the 2 leads that give you the broadest range of values.

Do your testing with both of your variable capacitors...and once the two leads are found on both capacitors...solder these two leads onto your PCB.

If you do not have a capacitance meter...it will be a hit or miss. You will have 4 obtions to find out if you can catch your resonating frequency. When the time comes to tuning your Islander (further down on this webpage), you will try the 4 obtions to catch your transmitter's frequency. And they are...

When you finally find out the correct leads on both varible tuning capacitors...cut the leads as short as possible...before soldering them into place on the PCB. Less distance between components and copper routing is always a 'rule of thumb'. This way, you lessen the chance of spurious capacitive and inductive signals to appear in the circuitry. To keep each tuning capacitor adhered to the PCB, possibly use a touch of super-glue on the bottom of each tuning capacitor, or a small amount of that 5-minute JB Weld. Both found at your local Wal-Mart stores.

When you are basically through with soldering all your components to the PCB, make sure you have 'no continuity' in respect to 'each' island and ground. This way, you will surely know that you will not have a short, when you turn your Islander on for the first time. Yes, do a continuity test with 'each' island...and make SURE it is not shorted out to your ground area. Once that is done, we can now tune in the Islander for the correct oscillating frequency...

The choice is up to you. I use my 'Adjustable Power Supply'...giving a constant 12 volts to the Islander. A battery will eventually die out...which will also cause a frequency shift...as the current is drained more and more from the battery; alhough this may take a few hours. You may want to put a 9v Voltage Regulator in between the battery and the Islander...thereby giving the Islander 9 volts, instead of 12 volts. This will cause the Islander to stay on frequency, until you 12v battery drains down to around 10.5 volts. The output will be less then 7 watts..possibly 3 or 4 watts.. But with a battery, you will definately get a clear clean audio sound coming from your electret mic. It is not so much as to how much power one has, as it is in the height you can get with your antenna. Elevation is the name of the game in FM transmissions. The higher you go with the antenna, the less obsticles the signal encounters along it's way to the receiver.

With any power supply...humming noise always seems to be present. It seems to be that 60 Hz frequency coming from the household outlet itself. I have experimented much to lessen this humming noise. There are 3 things that I did to lessen the humm, and they are:

1)I used about 15 round ferrite cores; sliding the RG-59 coax cable through them. They are positioned about one foot away from the hookup of the coax to the transmitter. This really aids in the lowering of the humming sound by at least 70%. These hollowed-out round ferrite cores do not need to all be the same size. They may be of all different sizes. I found mine salvaging through discarded Micro-Wave Ovens, TV's, Radios, Computer, Monitors, Copy Machines, Fax Machines, Printers, etc.

2) I also used a 2200uF/25v rating electroloytic capacitor, in parallel, right before the two leads coming from the power supply are soldered to the PCB.

3) I also used another electrolytic capacitor, whose value is 5600uF/80v rating. I soldered the positive lead adjacent to the 4.K carbon type resistor on the 12v + island. The negative lead went straight to ground.

These 3 things I did, in order to get the humming sound down to a minimum. You will have to investigate this yourself...as different variables where you live...will affect the humming sound in different ways. Try placing your ferrite beads at different distances along the RG-59 coax. Also try placing the two capacitors at different points along the hot side and ground side. This is part of the fun of the Islander. Your little jem will only work as the patience you put into it, my freind!

The Islander was designed to only work only on 3 frequencies. These three frequencies are...

You will need a digital AM/FM radio. Place this radio some 50 feet away from the Islander; with the volume turned up to about 1/3 to half. Have your dipole antennna some 30 feet away from the Islander. With the antenna system connected to the Islander, turn your fan and the Islander ON.

Being that most RF hobbiest do not have expensive testing equipment, one can easily find the correct main oscillating frequency with the Islander.

With the #26 tuning capacitor, turn this capacitor all the way counter-clockwise. Now with #11 variable capacitor, turn this capacitor slowly...all the way to the left and then all the way to the right. Somewhere in this turning, you will pick up your voice in the receiver that is 50 feet away. If not, do the same test again, but slightly turn #26 capacitor a little clockwise. Then go ahead and turn #11 very slowly, all the way to the left and then all the way to the right. Somewhere in this turning you will pick up your voice in the receiver. If not, do the same test again, by slightly turn #26 a little more clockwise.

Go through this procedure until you hit a spot on the #26 capacitor, that will let #11 latch on to the frequency that you have set on your receiver. This is precisely the way I do it. There will be a certain 'limited area' on capacitor #26, that will resonate in conjunction with the tuning of capacitor #11.

In Theory: When you are turning your #11 capacitor all the way to the left and then all the way to the right, it is indeed latching on to your 87.9 MHz frequency, but it cannot pass through #26, without #26 being tuned also to that specific frequency. That is why you are always slightly turning #26 more and more clockwise, until #26 matches up in frequency, with #11 capacitor.

When you have found the spot on both variable tuning capacitors...you will hear your voice good and clear. You will then have to double check your transmitter...to see if it is indeed on the main frequency, and not a harmonic...by getting into your car and tuning your FM dial to the frequency stated earlier...and find out how far you can pick up the signal. With the antenna at a height of just 15 feet, you should indeed be on the right transmitter frequency, if you hear your transmitter at a distance of 1 mile. If everything is working perfect, a distance of 3 miles can be achieved. Remember to put 'marks' on both capacitors, to remember at what position they were both at...to transmit at 87.9 MHz.

Here is a picture of my completed Islander..with power supply and fan. It will give you an idea on how mine looks like.

Notice my 'Adjustable Power Supply'...as the LED is on. The Volt Meter above it shows that I am exactly at 12VDC. No more is allowed, or that NTE474 will get hot very quickly. I also have my trusty fan...always blowing on the NTE474, keeping it from getting too hot. I also have about 15 or so ferrite round cores sliding over my RG-59 that goes to the dipole. They are about 18 inches or so from the transmitter output terminal. That is why you cannot see them in the picture. I slid them over different points on the coax, and found that the humming sound was less when the cores were around 1-1/2 feet away from the Islander's output terminal. These cores are the sole reason why I can reduce the humming sound coming from the power supply. Also, notice the two large electrolytic capacitors...they knock out the humming sound even more. Both positive terminals on each of these large capacitors are on the +12v island. The negative terminals on each of these large capacitors go to ground. You may have to experiment and find a good position where these capacitors work the best.

NOTE: Should you build the RF Probe/Watt Meter...make sure you take off those two large electrolytic capacitors, before you take a reading of your output voltages. The capacitors will give you incorrect readings...since they store energy.

My electret mic was replaced with a 10K audio potentiometer and 10 feet of RG-59 coax cable. The other end of the coax is a small audio jack. I insert this jack into my speaker output on my computer and play songs on my CD from the Windows Media Player. I them have two places I can control the volume of the songs...the computer itself...and my 10K pot. I then can get into my car and see how far I can hear the songs on the CD. Just tonight, I took a drive...and with my dipole being at 15 above ground (inside my two story apartment), I caught the signal 5 miles away...imagine that! So how strong is my signal? I have been testing it during this last week, and determined these results:

With my RF Probe/Watt Meter tester, took an unloaded and loaded voltage reading. I used digital volt meter. The results were an unloaded voltage that varied from 70 and 100 volts. The loaded reading varied from 30 to 40 volts. Being conservative, I used the minimum values of both unloaded and loaded, to find out the Islander's output impedance:

Now, lets find the output wattage of the Islander, since we now have it's output impedance:

With your Islander completed...you may now go back to the webpages on the RF Probe/Watt Meter...and the Field Strength Meter...to find out how to use these two measuring devices with your new-born Islander. Should you need help with these two devices, I am just a keyboard away!

This webpage has just been put on the internet. If you spot something not right or errors in typing, please do not hesitate to call upon me and let me know. With both our heads, we will have a 'near perfect' webpage on plans for the Islander...for everyone to have a succesful journey!

Well, there you have it my dear friend. Of course, I will be here, on this end, should you need guidance along the way. My Islander is working fine, as I type. So should you need help/assistance in some way throughout the project, do not hesitate to call upon me!

Obtion	1st Variable Tuning Capacitor (Osc.)	2nd Variable Tuning Capacitor (Amp.)
1st Obtion	Use leads #1 and #2	Use leads #1 and #2
2nd Obtion	Use leads #6 and #5	Use leads #1 and #2
3rd Obtion	Use leads #6 and #5	Use leads #6 and #5
4th Obtion	Use leads #1 and #2	Use leads #6 and #5